Oxford University Cave Club

1989 "Juracao " Expedition Final Report

Picos de Europa, Spain


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2/7: Rigging Guide

The rigs described here are as used on the 1989 expedition; some parts need re-rigging, and are noted as such. All hangers and deviation tapes were left in place to speed rigging forthe 1990 expedition. '' means that the rope used above continues to be used for this section. All lengths under "Rope'' are SRT rope unless prefixed with `L' - principal rigging is via ladder.

Pitch name Length Rope Belays
P10 65m Tape round boulder, bolt for traverse.
Traverse '' Three bolts.
P36 '' Two bolts; rebelay with two bolts; deviation (tape round thread).
Seventh Heaven P45 60m Two tapes through threads (above squeeze); two short wires and rope protector; rebelay 15m down - 3m wire round thread; deviation 5m down - bolt and short tape.
Paradise C7, L8 20m Two tapes around spikes; ladder for lower part onto ledge above P20.
Flying Rébellés P20 30m Bolt traverse; bolt Y-hang; deviation 5m down, long tape round spike.
Pablo PotP7 10m, L8m Bolt with tape backup; rope protector at pitchhead.
GripperP10 20m Tape traverse; Y-hang off two bolts; rebelay off two bolts (may be better to traverse further out.)
Graham's Todger P17 20m Long tape for traverse; short wire and bolt Y-hang; thread deviation 1.5m down; 15m tension line to rift.
Traverses (Ascension Pot) 25m Bolts.
Pessimists' P75 85m Thread and bolt for traverse; two bolt Y-hang; bolt and tape deviation; two bolt Y-hang (main hang) - two short rope protectors; bolt rebelay 55m down; bolt and tape deviation 2m lower.
Sing to the DevilP31 35m Two bolts for sloping traverse; bolt; bolt deviation 2m down.
Traverse 25m Bolt, bolt, spike.
The BellsP37 45m Bolt; bolt rebelay (*replace by bolt deviation in back wall); bolt rebelay; bolt deviation;thread deviation. (5 Second Warning)
ArmageddonP54 60m Two spike traverse; wire round spike (main hang); thread deviation; bolt rebelay; spike deviation; thread deviation; thread rebelay; bolt rebelay.
The HundredP29, 4, 36 90m Two bolts for traverse; bolt; bolt rebelay 2m down; six bolt rebelays; traverse to spike.
- P22 30m Thread traverse to bolt; thread deviation; bolt rebelay.
Pitch Through First False Floor 15m Bolt backup; spike; spike deviation at top; bolt deviation.
Rosy Crucifixion P40 45m Thread backup; bolt (main hang); thread deviation near top; bolt deviation.(*Needs more rebelays / deviations in back wall to avoid mud.)
Cemetery Gates P30 40m Medium wire backup; long wire; bolt; bolt rebelay (pendule round ridge); bolt rebelay. (main hang needs rigging as Y-hang; further rebelays and deviations needed to avoid mud and rub points.)
Gusamo Climb C8 12m Natural belays.
Just Awesome I (Crash Pad) P17 35m Natural backup; short tape (for climb); medium wire \ medium tape Y-hang; bolt deviation; Y-rebelay (short tape, medium wire); five bolt traverse.
Just Awesome II (Big Ledge) P42 120m Bolt backup; tape on spike; long wire on spike; bolt on lip with rope protector.
Just Awesome III P4, 10, 36 ''(* needs backup where previous pitch lands); bolt Y-belay; bolt; bolt (main hang).
Dead or Alive P -40 60m (Left rigged); Naturals; natural rebelay. (needs re-rigging.)
Marble Arch P15 20m Bolt backup; bolt; bolt and tape (main hang). (* needs total re-rig.)
(to Mr. Jones) P15 20m Wire and bolt Y-hang; bolt rebelay; deviation to natural.
G.S.P. Series    
  P1520m Rigged from top of Flying Rébellés; lower end Pendule secured to tapes round spikes.
  P2025mThree natural rebelays
  P4060mBolt belay; natural deviation; traverse to bolt; traverse to natural.
  C8 15m Natural belay
(Blind Pot 1) P610mNatural belay
(Blind Pot 2) P6 10m

Two natural belays

Tumbling Dice Ps30, 70 120mNatural backup; two bolt Y-hang; natural deviation; natural rebelay; natural deviation on ledge; bolt + natural Y-hang; bolt rebelay 25m down, natural deviation 20m down.

 Pitches beyond Mr. Jones (see cave description) were left rigged, and will be re-rigged on the 1990 Expedition.